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Friday, February 06, 1998 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Page: 





Kim's place a welcome roadside rest &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 If you have ever been headed back to the Wyoming Valley on Route 309 after
antiquing in Wyoming County, touring in French Azilum, factory-looking in &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Corning or perennial shopping in LeRaysville, it's been like a stagecoach
stopCharlie's Other Place, located in Evans Falls, about 16 miles from
Wilkes-Barre, is about the only restaurant on that stretch of road. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 The operation recently changed its name to Kim's Country Kitchen, and
although we weren't antiquing or touring and it was too early for perennials,
we were intrigued. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 If Charlie was gone, the decor has remained; wood paneling in the board and
batten style, six booths, a couple of small tables, some country cute
decorations on the walls, a gum-ball machine and a jar of jerky at the
register. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 It's not fancy, but the restaurant is comfortable. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 Kim's Country Kitchen serves breakfast and lunch from a printed menu,
however, we concentrated on dinner. Kim's offers no printed menu for that
meal. Instead, a list of entrees, side dishes and soups are displayed on a
board that confronts people as they enter the cozy dining room. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 On a recent Sunday, for example, there were three soups, nine entree
options and a handful of vegetables and side dishes. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 The traditional comfort foods were not only reasonably priced, but also
revealed some savory surprises. Lamb ($8.95), for example, was carved from the
roast. It was just a tad dry, though full of flavor and served with real brown
lamb gravy. Likewise turkey (6.95) was hand carved from a roast, rather than
sliced by machine from a turkey breast. A flavorful stewed chicken ($5.95)
with light gravy topped fresh biscuits. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 All three were served with fresh, fluffy mashed potatoes. Lamb and turkey
were served with plastic condiment cups of mint and cranberry jelly,
respectively. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 Beef stroganoff and meatloaf were full-flavored, though salty. The
stroganoff included mushrooms and a rich cream sauce served over noodles. The
meatloaf was bolstered with some finely diced green pepper. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 All the entrees were mounded on oval plates. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 The side dishes were a mixed experience. One night, we were told there was
no more broccoli, which was curious because it was served to diners who
ordered before and after us. The broccoli that was served had the brilliant
bright green of freshly cooked flowerets. On another visit, however, the
broccoli that was served to us was broccoli mush. Go figure. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 Among other side dishes, carrots were glazed and not overcooked, corn was
buttered and coleslaw was creamy though not too sweet. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 We tried two soups; turkey and rice soup was top-notch, a rich, clear
broth, full of tender turkey, carrots, celery and rice. Creamy ham and potato
soup was thick as glue, but, surprisingly, it wasn't as stupefying as it
appeared. And it tasted fresh. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 Standard dinner rolls were warmed in a microwave. And the salad bar
consisted of iceberg lettuce, cucumber slices, red onion slices, tomato
wedges, radish slices and croutons. More a salad bar-ette. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 However, all the dressings we tasted were made at the restaurant. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 Desserts were generally good, we suspect, in part, because they're made at
the restaurant. Rice pudding was a slight disappointment; vanilla pudding with
rice, though it was served with a nice flourish of whipped cream curlicues. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 Both pineapple pie and lemon meringue pie had a fresh, flaky crust. The
gelatinous pineapple filling was sweet, aromatic and a special treat. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 Cinnamon raisin bread pudding was a winner, delivering a wealth of raisins
with a body that was neither too sweet or dry. Pecan pie wasn't the best I'd
ever tasted, but it was the best since driving through Alabama 18 years ago. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 Evans Falls is a lot closer. And for a traveler headed to Wyoming County-
and mindful of a careful selection- Kim's Country Kitchen is a reasonable
roadside stop. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 The restaurant review is published in the Weekend section every Friday. The
reviewer is unidentified to avoid the possibility of preferential treatment. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 TIMES LEADER/CLARK VAN ORDEN &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 For travelers between the Wyoming Valley and Wyoming County, Kim's Country
Kitchen has location, location, location. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 Kim's Country Kitchen &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
 WHERE: Route 309, Evans F

Kim's Place A Welcome Roadside Rest 
If You Have Ever Been Headed Back To The Wyoming Valley On Route 309 After 
Antiquing In Wyoming County, Touring In French Azilum, Factory-looking In 
Corning Or Perennial Shopping In Leraysville, It's Been Like A Stagecoach 
Stop.

Kim's Place A Welcome Roadside Rest If You Have Ever Been Headed Back To The Wyoming Valley On Route 309 After Antiquing In Wyoming County, Touring In French Azilum, Factory-looking In Corning Or Perennial Shopping In Leraysville, It's Been Like A Stagecoach Stop.